IIRC there is some Lexan sheet that has a coating on it perhaps not unlike the hard UV coating on headlights , and that's probably what I'd want for a racecar window. I think you're right to lower expectations on this because likely the chemical damage from the brake fluid is pretty deep, and even if you could sand that out you'd probably have a pretty wavy, non-"glasslike" window Good call, Mike. Re: How to fix Lexan windows Lexan is probably in my detailing experience the absolutely hardest thing to work on.
I can attest to what Mike is saying in that a lightly scratched or lexan window that has lost its UV protective layer is difficult to restore. I have a hardtop on my car where the rear window is lexan. The sun is the worst enemy and it will oxidize making it very difficult to correct. I have tried a few combinations from an orange LC pad with some menzerna SIP that worked well, however I have found that a black LC finishing hybrid pad with plastX works just as good and is easier to work with.
The pad gets very dirty quickly, but I find that plastX by hand yielded terrible swirling so I would only recommend this with a DA I use the flex Hope this helps you. Originally Posted by Mike Phillips. New to racing, we used shoe polish for our 1st dial in time -it would not come off.
Re: How to fix Lexan windows Novus makes a plastic polish the has 3 different steps with 3 being the most aggressive. I'm not sure how it compares with any of the other products. I have used it on boats with good results. It may work but Lexan is a different animal. The brake fluid may have doomed it. Trying to help OP out,please remove if you don't want that product name mentioned here. You know I send the link to this thread to the person that originally sent me the e-mail and rarely do I have hear back from them.
Of course they can join the forum and interact but most of them don't. That's okay but it also give me license to take their e-mails to the forum as I don't have the time for answering question using a limited form of media like e-mail. And when working on something important to you and you don't know what you're doing? Join this forum and ask questions first before you start "touching" the thing that is important to you let along smearing products onto it. Re: How to fix Lexan windows I saw this thread a few days ago but didn't have the time then to type out a reply.
My experience with Lexan has been in buffing motorcycle windshields. I do a fair amount of motorcycle details, and have buffed a fair amount of motorcycle windshields with varying success. Often, the UV coat on the windshield fails and has to be removed so it's not uncommon to have to buff that off. I recently detailed my Dad's Honda Gold Wing for him to sell it.
He had some scratches of varying depths on the windshield and wanted to see what I could do with it. The UV coating was barely beginning to flake. The windshield was Lexan. Here are the steps I took: Started with buffing with my G and a 3. This made good progress but of course left hazing. That's fine, I was trying to get the major scratches out. The UV coating was buffing off too, of course.
I continued with this on both sides of the windshield until all of the UV coating was gone took the windshield off to get to the back side better. Triple Strawberry Sundaes Looking for a dessert idea? Then check out this sundae recipe that uses strawberries in 3 ways - ready All rights reserved. Privacy Email : [email protected]. In Tfrecipes. Author: Molly Baz. Author: Rick Rodgers. Author: Nathan Jean Whitaker Sanders.
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Author: Betty Crocker Kitchens. Author: dakota kelly. Author: Alvin Zhou. Author: Ina Garten. I would first use some solvent like laquer thinner to see if you can get some of the paint off.
You'll never get it looking like new but it will look better afterwards. It will fill in light scratches and whirl marks. Not cheap but good stuff. I would be afraid lacquer thinner might melt the lexan. It is there to help reduced the sandblasting effect. Start in a corner with whatever you use and dont get so aggressive that you go through the hardcoat. The windshield will scratch very easily if you do.
The rear glass is NOT hardcoated, so go easy with that. In fact try the rear glass first and whatever works for you, do that on the front.
That will make sure you dont get too crazy with the softer material. I wonder how well that would work on polycarbonate glasses lenses. Now matter how expensive it is, enough to do a windshield once would last just about forever for glasses, and once the swirl marks start, you live with them or drop another few hundred bucks on lenses, which of course will not be exactly like the old ones so there's a 2 week headache and eye strain period while your eyes readjust.
That's your answer. We used to use Lexan to build cases for model airplanes. The Novus multi-step was the way to go. In a sailplane it's ALL lexan, it's what we use. EDIT: This stuff.
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